As I'd commented in one of my past posts I like to take a trip into the mountains of Kokonoe-machi about once a month to have the best hot dog in Japan (that I've ever found) and then hit a hot spring. Well, much to my dismay the hot dog shop is closed until spring, which makes sense considering the road to it was impassible for much of this last week due to snow. Peeved, but not angry, I pressed on towards a new onsen near the "cider" springs of Yamazato Onsen only to find it really blah-looking. Cheap at 200 J-bucks, but boring. Pointing my car towards the billowing volcanic peaks of Mt. Kuju and the gorgeous Yamanami Highway (in my opinion one of the most beautiful leisure drives in the nation) I stumbled onto what looked like just another two-story family house except for the sign in front--"Kizuna Onsen". Having never failed with the small, cozy type of hot springs I pulled into the lot.
Entering the bath I was let down to find it disappointingly normal except for the bath faucets that were inscrutable. It took me a little bit to get used to multi-directional knobs and buttons I had to press to activate hot water mode and luckily I was alone for the time being to look like a complete jackass who didn't know how to use a faucet. There was a door set against the wall and I didn't pay it much mind because it was small, like a staff access entrance or something. Then I heard voices through it while washing my hair and opened it up to find a rotenburo (outside bath) made of polished rocks and this view...
Why couldn't I have brought my normal camera?! Next time, next time...
What you're looking at is Mt. Kuju on a perfectly clear winter day, its vents steaming. This puny picture does it no justice at all, I damn near went weak in the knees and collapsed like some 13-year-old girl at a Monkees concert. (They're so dreamy!) The air was freezing--literally -2C outside at the time--but the water was perfect, and I mean perfect! I brought a book to read in the bath and could hardly think about picking it up in the face of such magnificence. I could sit there and stare all day and night until I was a waterlogged prune of a man I think.
I can't wait to head back, next time with a proper camera. Also, down the driveway and across the street are a few stylish mountain cafes that claim to be organic so I'll report on those as well.
--Matt
P.S.: I finally rushed out in time to snap a shot of the Sweet Potato Cryer's truck. This is a man with a portable sweet potato oven in his van that drives all over down singing (in warbly Japanese) "Sweet potatoes for sale! Delicious, delicious and good for you too!"
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